The wines produced in volcanic areas are able to immediatly disclose their origins even if they show different hints basing, of course, on the grape variety, the exact location as well as hand, mind and soul of the producer.
The renowned italian writer Mario Soldati used to define the wines from Etna (Sicily) with notes which recall the tar somehow. I personally love the ones from Vesuvio (in Campania region) especially the white Falanghina dei Campi Flegrei, different from the better known Falanghina del Sannio especially for its savory character perfectly evident in the production of Cantine Astroni winery, for example.
In Italy there are many other great examples so I took the chance to try 7 different wines produced in volcanic areas all over Italy on the occasion of the Only Wine Festival of Città di Castello town (in Umbria, central Italy), wine event focused on the italian small productions.
And beyond the list of notes I focused on the different volcanic shades that each wine, from different regions, has shown.
- Sesto 21 – Frascati Superiore D.O.C.G. 2015 – by Casata Mergè
Beyond the typical tropical and a vegetal notes of Sauvignon, the volcanic influence is expressed through a savoury character on the palate
- Villa Barbi- Orvieto Classico D.o.c. 2015 – by Decugnano dei Barbi
In this case I perceive flint and chalk since the beginning
- Luigi e Giovanna – Orvieto D.o.c. Classico Superiore 2013 – by Barberani
An intense wine, smoky and coherent on the palate
- Runcata – Soave Superiore 2014 – by Corte Giacobbe
Puffs of sulfur. Ash on the palate with a smoky finish
- Albare – Soave D.o.c. 2010 – by Az.agr.Portinari
Ash again, especially on the nose. Smooth but with a savory finish
- Millesulmare- Sicilia D.o.c. Bianco 2014 – by SantaMariaLaNave
A burned note recalls a welcoming Creme brulèe, younger than I expected on the palate
- Calmarossa- Etna D.o.c. rosso 2014 – by SantaMariaLaNave
A mix of ash and smoke on the nose, mr. Galanti (Best Italian Sommelier in the 2015 who leads the tasting) mentions the fireplace. Yet, a black olive touch. Powerful on the palate and nearly salty.
