One of the recurring themes in the last years is surely the recovery of native varieties, especially in Italy, which are loyal witnesses of local traditions. I sometimes wonder how many times it turns out to be a mere trend. This is certainly not the case with Trebbiano Spoletino, which is making its way with determination in Umbira region (central Italy) and more precisely in Spoleto and its surroundings. Hence, this year we are, not surprisingly, in Trevi for the third edition of deGusto (the annual dedicated focus). For someone, in fact, there’s an etymological connection between the city and the vine by linking the Latin term “Trebianus” to “Trebia”, that used to stand for Trevi, since Trebbia was the ancient name of Trevi. Anyway, it is undeniable the local tradition of producing Vinsanto (sweet wine) with this grape variety, locally called Trebbiano di Trevi.
The Trebbiano Spoletino is a white that offers thousand shades and is becoming a powerful alternative to the region’s red heritage with its amazing versatility, lending itself to a huge heterogeneity of stylistic expressions. In addition to the charm of the so-called “alberata” (vine training system), of which there are only a few examples, the resulting wines are structured but with a body supported by a concentration of scents that often yield to bitter tones on a generally long finish; if you add that it is characterized by an important acidity level and savouriness, it is easy to guess the potential for ageing of a white wine available under numerous styles: from the most classic and clear expressions given by stainless steel to the maturation in wood, from sparkling to orange wines.
Here is my top list:
• Trebbiano Spoletino Superiore DOC 2017 (by Colle Uncinano): bright, with aromatic notes supported by a floral touch along with white peach and face powder. Dry rather than vibrant, coherent and typically bitter on the finish, with personality
• Trebbiano Spoletino Superiore DOC 2017 (Agricola San Sabino): compact color, it offers a nose outlined by candied lemon peel, herbs and sweet spices. On tha palate is round, dry with a long finish
• Trebbiano Spoletino DOC Spoleto, 2017 Anteprima Tonda (Antonelli San Marco): a guarantee in the regional landscape; intriguing nose, spicy but also fruity (pear) wit(h hints of jasmine. Balanced and playful
• Trebbiano Spoletino DOC Spoleto Benedetti and Grigi 2017 (Benedetti and Grigi): a thin, clear and elegant wine that smells of gentian, white peach and melted butter. The gustatory affability is perfectly balanced with freshness and savouriness
• Trebbiano Spoletino IGT Umbria 2018 (Bocale): the fruit is ripe, the Mediterranean herbs alongside a light medicinal scent. Good intensity, a coherent and composed wine
• Trebbiano Spoletino DOC Spoleto Del Posto 2017 (Perticaia): a layered and complex wine. Frankish nose of ripe tropical fruits, lemon leaf, white pepper. Full, fresh and satisfying
• Trebbiano Spoletino IGT Umbria Le Tese 2017 (Romanelli): in my opinion the company that best manages maceration. The light captured by visual analysis announces a wine in great shape with pot-pourri aromas and sweet spices. Dry but also vibrant and persistent
• Trebbiano Spoletino Umbria IGT Goccio 2018 (Dionigi): sage and yellow peach outline a contained but inviting olfactory picture which is confirmed by the satisfying and harmonious sip
• Trebbiano Spoletino IGT Umbria Arneto 2017 (Tenuta Bellafonte): the nose is fine with notes of passion fruit, sweet hints and smoke in the background; on the palate is round with a whispered character, excellent potential
• Montefalco Bianco DOC Sperella 2018 (Tenuta Bellafonte): same company, different line and vintages, this is a younger and more immediate version with notes of chamomile, bitter orange peel and wild herbs. Tense and balanced, beautiful persistence
• Trebbiano Spoletino IGT Umbria Cantaluce 2017 (Colsanto - LIVON): for lovers of the genre, a bold wine matured in wood that give a clear but still balanced character with notes of toasted hazelnut and ripe fruit; marked by savouriness too, long finish