Laura Fabiani is general manager at La Cipriana as well as the third generation of a family that invests in Bolgheri area at the dawn of international success in Tuscany (Central Italy). She is the one who virtually guided me along the family path.
It all starts with 4 hectares (10 acres) in Campastrello town where the company is based today, then opens up a bit. Today, there are 14 hectares (35 acres) with very young vines along older vines (up to 30 years old). They started with the notorious and typical black grape of Tuscany, Sangiovese, before a certain Marquis gave way to a completely new identity for the whole territory. Today, therefore, the main varieties used are Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Syrah for precise reds and a surprising rosé, Vermentino for the only one white wine of great character. Cabernet Franc has recently been planted and will enrich Bolgheri Superiore type.
The total number of bottles is currently about 30 / 35,000 and the labels, simple and refined, are made in watercolor by a local artist.
Not just reds, therefore, as anticipated on social media and in the title, what struck me was the depth and personality of the white and the rosé.
Here are some tasting notes.
“Paguro” Bolgheri Vermentino DOC 2019
100% Vermentino from Corsican and Sardinian clones from almost flat vineyards with sandy soil. Processed in stainless steel only, without malolactic fermentation.
Medium lemon in colour. Rather intense on the nose with subtle hints of pineapple, broom and oregano enriched by a breath of flint before more evolved notes of acacia honey.
On the palate it is full and round with a velvety texture but supported by a lively acidity and a precise savouriness that lightens the alcoholic embrace more present in this vintage than in previous ones.
“Peau d’Ange” Toscana rosato IGT 2019
Syrah and Merlot from sandy soils at low altitudes. Only stainless steel without malolactic fermentation.
Pink-orange in colour. Subtle but fine nose outlined by crushed black cherry, roots, licorice. Beautiful texture.
On the palate it is harmonious, savory and juicy with a good structure and long finish. What a surprise.
“Cipriana” Bolgheri rosso DOC 2019
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah from sandy soils at low altitudes. Processed in concrete and barrique for six months.
Intense and pungent on the nose with notes of ripe currant, wild violet and nutmeg then green pepper and sandalwood.
Deep wine of medium structure, balanced acidity, integrated but not perfectly ripe tannins.
“Villa Scopaio 339” Bolgheri DOC 2019
Cabernet Sauvignon from clayey soils at low altitudes, processed in used French oak barriques and tonneaux for 10 months.
Medium ruby. Intense nose with aromas of vanilla, toast but also sour cherry, paprika and a hint of tar with a minty touch in the background.
Round, full-bodied with medium-high tannins, consistent with its return of vanilla and black fruit, balanced by a savory trail that lightens the sip. It still needs bottle ageing for greater general integration.
“San Martino” Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2017
Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon from clayey soils. In barrique for at least 12 months.
The top of the range can be immediately recognized for that coveted balance between richness and elegance. Intense of small red fruits and strawberry jam, cinnamon and almost toffee. The woody notes are indirect and suggest dark chocolate, tobacco; then toasted almond.
Full body, high but ripe tannins, long finish and to be enjoyed sip by sip despite the structure.
