A story of passion and research on sober but enthusiastic tones that are directly reflected by the sparkling wines of this wine company: crucial brand for the production of “bubbly” wines in Trentino area (northern Italy), protected by the denomination ‘Trento Doc’, one of the most interesting sparkling wine appellations in Italy.

Letrari was founded in 1976 when mr. Leonello (Letrari) decides to transpose his considerable experience and skills into what will become the family business, now managed by his daughter Lucia. It is located in Vallagarina area where the river Adige and the local wind, Ora del Garda, contribute to the definition of a temperate climate; the soils are poor and rocky, basically of basaltic origin which perhaps contributes to an evident minerality of the finished product. They work on 18 hectares (about 24 acres) in total for an annual production of 130,000 bottles, of which 85/90,000 of Classic Method sparkling wine Trentodoc (9 references in total), the main production. The grapes used for the sparkling wines are Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. The dosages are all based on Chardonnay and sugar. Beyond the specific tasting notes, I find that Letrari sparkling wines are transversally characterized by sobriety and a beautifully creamy mousse.

Here is my top list.

• Dosaggio Zero s.a .: Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, 24/30 months on the lees

The nose is fine but quite intense: white musk, green apple, lemon peel with a touch of white flowers and bread crust. Tense, vertical, almost saline on the palate. Creamy, dry.

• Quore Brut Riserva 2013: Chardonnay, 60 months on the lees

Developed, smoky nose with hints of apple peel. Fine and creamy mousse. Sparkling wine with a certain character, hints of ripe fruit (golden apple, grapefruit) and hazelnut; perfectly balanced acidity.

Dosaggio Zero Riserva

• Dosaggio Zero Riserva 2014 – Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, 60 months on the lees

Fine and complex on the nose with notes of white peach, candied lime and hints of vanilla. A wine even before being a sparkling wine with notes of sugared almonds along with white and red currants. Mineral, balanced and, once again, creamy.

Letrari +4 Brut Rosè Riserva

• +4 Brut Rosè Riserva 2010: Pinot Nero (with short maceration on the skins) and Chardonnay, 108 months on the lees (9 years)

Austere, with hints of grilled berries, coffee and rose. A soft elegance combines with a more rustic and decisive character. Intense, long finish, great personality