Not all rosé wines are just for summer and, yet, rosé wines are not only for immediate consumption.
Along with well-known brands available on the regional as well as on the national territory as a whole, Rabottini’s Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo proves exactly this, being a rosé that is released onto the market at least one year after the harvest but which is aged even longer and so also previous vintages are availble.
Here is why, I have recently had the opportunity to taste the 2020 as a tank sample (it has been bottled right in these days and will be released soon) along with the 2019 and 2018.
We are obviously in Abruzzo region (Central Italy), as mentioned by the appellation itself, where the local rosé, which benefits from its own appellation (Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC corresponding to the European PDO) plays a central role in the regional wine identity also because it stands out as one of the best rosé wines in Italy. Not surprisingly, in the Italian guide ’50 Top Rosé’ launched in 2021 with the 50 Top publishing group to reward the best 50 Italian rosé wines (still and sparkling), Abruzzo stood out for the number of rewarded companies and relative positioning.
Rabottini winery is located on the hills of the province of Chieti. A family-run business for three generations but they started to bottle only in 2011 with Massimo Rabottini and the precious support of his wife Isabella Iezzi who left her main job to devote herself to wine and oil. Today they work on a total of 15 hectares (37 acres) of vineyards, olive groves and orchards; the vines occupy about 5 hectares (12 acres) with plants up to 50 years of age, a single body and a total of about 15 / 20,000 bottles a year. In addition to the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, the red Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and the white Trebbiano d’Abruzzo are produced.
So their rosato, their Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo whise fantasy name is “Per Iniziare” (literally meaning “To start”, is 100% Montepulciano, produced in stainless steel with 8/10 hours of skin contact and it is bottled from April after the harvest on to be aged in bottle for at least 6 months.
“Per Iniziare” Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 2018
The nose has developed aromas of macerated cherry and kirsch, ash, walnut, roots and licorice with a meaty touch. The alcoholic note makes it pungent and pushes the odorous notes out so it is there but not at all isolated or insidious. As the temperature rises, notes of blood and forest honeydew emerge.
On the palate it is smooth due to that glycerine concentration of the alcohol. It remains austere with flavours in full coherence with the olfactory analysis (ash, roots and licorice, first of all) with a slightly bitter finish which can be helpful with fat dishes. Certainly savory, medium+ bodied.
“Per Iniziare” Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 2019
The nose is fine and of good intensity without any excess, with fruity aromas of kirsch and mineral whiffs of slate along with violet and liquorice that make it inviting.
On the palate it is decidedly welcoming thanks to this return of ripe red fruit; very well balanced with medium/medium+ structure which, again, makes it perfect for food pairing, in perfect shape also thanks to its refreshing character along with a savoury finish.
“Per Iniziare” Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 2020 – tank sample
Intense with notes still related to the fermentation phase as the wine is not ready yet. The aromas recall meaty notes, carnation, together with pure red cherry, pomegranate and fuji apple juice, then officinal herbs.
On the palate is round, enveloping and juicy with a return of red apple. Dry, warm but with a more integrated alcohol content due to the higher fruity concentration which comes along.
It remains exuberant (due to age) but bodes well for a nice variety of red fruits balanced by refreshing notes of herbs, a beautiful savory character and the right acidity level to support a potential for ageing perfectly demonstrated by, at least, the 2019 vintage.
