There is no greater challenge than preserving such an important reputation but the recent “Pino Khail 2022” award for Chiara Lungarotti by Civiltà del Bere, the first time for a woman by the way, says a lot about spirit, tenacity and value of a Woman of Wine, like Chiara, CEO of Lungarotti winery in Umbria region, Central Italy along with her sister Teresa and her mother Maria Grazia.

The reds of Torgiano remains one of the most coveted wines of Umbria region and, together with the whites of Orvieto, they are the symbols of the region, today flanked by the impetus of Sagrantino di Montefalco.
Anything started with Giorgio Lungarotti, one of the pioneers of Italian viticulture, who founded his company in the 60s, and decided to produce a wine closely linked to its territory: Torgiano which achieved the recognition as DOC (for both the white and the red version) in the 1968 and as DOCG, for the Rosso Riserva, in 1990: an amazing Sangiovese, the Riserva version, named after the single vineyards where the grapes come from, “Vigna Monticchio”, delicious and strong at the same time with impressive ageing potential.

A vertical tasting starting from 1974 up to 2019 represents a juncture with the new, current generation, the one represented very well by Chiara Lungarotti who finds herself writing her story when she was still young, in the 1999, after the father, Giorgio, passed away.

In addition to the whites, able to demonstrate their potential as well, such as the immediate ‘Torre di Giano’ of which in addition to 2021 I have appreciated a lot the 2018 (Torre di Giano – Vigna Il Pino that smells of candied citrus, jasmine and pineapple, refreshing on the palate with a certain savouriness and a structure supported by the partial short maturation in wooden casks); and the opulence of Aurente (given the 6 month passage in barrique with  bâtonnage for a variety that benefits from it such as Chardonnay); the reds of Torgiano are the protagonists here along with the structure of the wines coming from Montefalco estate or the ‘San Giorgio’ that combines Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon.

 

Here are some notes:

 

RUBESCO Rosso di Torgiano DOC 2019, current vintage

In 2022, they celebrate 60 years from the first bottle produced in 1962.

(Sangiovese 90% and Colorino 10%, fermentation in stainless steel, maturation in 50Hl barrels, 1 year in bottle).

 

Deep in colour; intense on the nose with notes of black fruits and roots. Consistent on the palate, full and dynamic.

 

RUBESCO Rosso di Torgiano DOC 2000

(Sangiovese 70%, Canaiolo 30% [it probably was already Colorino for a possible error in classification], same maturation and ageing rules although anything changed in 2000 under Chiara’s new guide with higher focus on quality and modern approaches).

Ruby red with garnet reflections; developed nose with notes of dried flowers, black pepper and coffee, kirsch. Good balance, bodied, dry and clean finish.

Let’s move on to the Reserve, 100% Sangiovese, single vineyard, matured in barrique for about one year.

RUBESCO VIGNA MONTICCHIO Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG 2017

Deep and pronounced nose: cherry, licorice, walnut and vanilla. Still not completely open on the palate, structured, elegant, with firm but ripe tannins; important potential for ageing.

 

RUBESCO VIGNA MONTICCHIO Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG 1997

Ripe, intense and complex nose with layered notes of licorice roots, coffee powder, chocolate liqueur, tobacco and black cherries then plum, paprika and even puffs of lemongrass. Round and welcoming, juicy and velvety. Long and dynamic.

 

RUBESCO VIGNA MONTICCHIO Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOC 1974

Nearly orange. The bouquet offers an intense aroma of coffee, blood notes that combine with sensations of blackberry jam, barley and a meaty touch. Dry, juicy, with a long fruity and savory finish, silky tannins. Not to be aged too much longer.