It is always a privilege to taste old vintages of a wine: it is a gift that the producer offers, a journey through the time. Imagine when the annual production is around 2000 bottles for wines from 200-year-old vines on average.
Guastaferro is the winery run by Raffaele Guastaferro with the support of the winemaker Sebastiano Fortunato based on a family tradition launched by his father, Antonio, who took part to the recognition of Taurasi as DOCG (the first DOCG in Southern Italy!) in the 1990s. After graduating Raffaele takes the reins and decides to make wine from their own grapes also considering the availability of 1,5 hectares of plants of 200 years old. The result? It is extremely didactic: the extremely low yields by nature allow the concentration which supports the balance of a wine that tends to be very rich in acidity and tannin.
I recently had the opportunity to join Eric Guido in an on-site vertical tasting and I have been impressed. The smoothness of the most recent vintages, the harmony even in the most difficult vintages (due to the low temperature) such as 2014 or 2018, the integration and vividness in the older ones, literally forgotten in the cellar, are amazing.
The range is simple to be presented: in addition to the most recent and rare white from Grecomusc’, there are the reds, an Aglianico named Memini (Irpinia DOC, fermentation in steel and a few months in big barrels) and then the Taurasi DOCG “Primum” which ages for 14 months in large wooden casks (25Hl). In the best vintages, Taurasi Riserva DOCG is also released, exclusively from the few 200-year-old plants for a total of around 10,000 bottles per year.
AGLIANICO 2020:
Wine released earlier then Taurasi. The weather was rather regular, the difficulties resulted from the pandemic (COVID19).
Intense nose of ripe fruit and spices for an enveloping and balanced sip with a very fruity finish.
TAURASI 2018:
Deep in colour with aromas of wild berries, cinnamon and cloves, sandalwood, paprika and then tobacco. On the palate it is juicy and vertical, long finish.
TAURASI 2017 RISERVA:
The hot vintage makes it powerful but the balance of the ripe fruit and the tannins with the shy support of acidity makes its way through the notes of almost jammy black fruit.
TAURASI 2016:
Rainy vintage which made the nose thinner but extremely fine for a young and very integrated sip. The tobacco returns afterwards representing a fil-rouge of all glasses.
TAURASI 2011:
Dry and hot vintage but also one of those that is surprising after many years. The aromas of plum and dry flowers announce a dry and powerful palate.
TAURASI 2008:
Regular vintage rewarded with 5 stars for a wine with balsamic hints and notes of coffee on the nose. Dried rose and red cherry jam for a typical and integrated sip, soft and long.
TAURASI 2007 RISERVA:
The father was unable to sell all the grapes and so he decided to keep the ones from the old vines. Today the wine is extremely intriguing with notes of black cherry and chocolate for a delicious and round sip albeit the austere tannins.
TAURASI 2004:
Another handful of bottles forgotten in the cellar and discovered only recently. My favorite glass: harmonious, in perfect shape, deep and refreshing on the nose for a structured, textural but juicy sip with a saline finish.
