As in a trilogy – recalling the definition of the colleague Vitale – nestled between the better-known DOCGs of Brunello di Montalcino and Morellino di Scansano, Montecucco is a Tuscan gem exposed to the warm influence of the Amiata volcano and to the Tyrrhenian breeze as well as to a high local competition from which can surely draw inspiration. Yet, the brightness of Maremma area in which it is immersed the appellation, the ventilation and the altitudes guarantee a straightforward and appreciated result, especially in terms of value for money. A value perceived since the very beginning, especially abroad, on which, on average, 65% of production flows.

“A small appellation to keep an eye on” was whispered a few years ago, and which today reaps the benefits of both a more coordinated vision, given the recognition of the DOC (1998) and the subsequent birth of the Consortium (2000), and for the maturity of plants and experience. Since 2011 the “Sangiovese” typology can boast the DOCG recognition (the valuest in Italy) therefore, today, denominations and types are: Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG (also in the Riserva version), Montecucco Rosso DOC (also in the Riserva version), Montecucco Vermentino and Montecucco Bianco DOC, Montecucco Rosato DOC, Montecucco Vin Santo DOC and Montecucco Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice DOC.

In emergency circumstances such as the current ones, an online tasting has been recently organized by the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco and led, with contagious passion, by the journalist Divina Vitale. Eight wines by eight companies followed one other for a taste of the area as well as of approaches and interpretations.

In addition to a white wine (from Vermentino grape) that offers a combination of fluid salinity and a certain solidity at once, the Sangiovese-based reds, needless to say (given the popularity of this grape here in Tuscany, elected as its reign), all develop through an evident tannic structure albeit aided by acidity, as well as an alcoholic embrace. A possible classification key could therefore pass through the right balance to avoid any “heaviness”, to be declined on aspects such as minerality and dynamism of the sip as well as by means of the coveted balance between the maturations for which they rely on the vintages without too many sophistications, such as often stated by some of the producers involved.

Here are impressions and details of the wines for tasting.

CHIARANOTTE – VERMENTINO MONTECUCCO DOC 2019, RIBUSIERI

100% Vermentino. Vinified in stainless steel, aged in the bottle.

Young and immediate nose with notes of broom, lemon leaf and pear. Simple and refreshing sip given the evident acid-sapid tension.

 

PONTOLUNGO – MONTECUCCO ROSSO DOC 2017, POGGIO TREVVALLE

62% Sangiovese, 30% Colorino and Merlot, 8% Cabernet S. Vinified in stainless steel, matured in barriques of various ages, refined in the bottle.

Penetrating nose of ripe cherry, violet and ink on a background of bitter almond and forest floor. On the palate it is masculine, warm but also mineral. The difficult vintage did not allow for perfect integration. Slightly bitter on the finish.

 

ARDENTE – MONTECUCCO ROSSO DOC 2016, COLLE PETRUCCIO

100% Sangiovese. Stainless steel and bottle.

Intense and layered on the nose with welcoming fruity aromas of blackberry which then leave room for notes of leather and licorice; as the hours pass, a slight hint of truffle emerges. On the palate it is dynamic and invites to the second sip. The tannins are firm but ripe and integrated.

Among the best samples.

 

POGGIO D’ORO – MONTECUCCO DOCG SANGIOVESE 2017, LE CALLE

100% Sangiovese. Vinified in concrete, matured in tonneau for 12 months, aged in bottle for at least 6 months.

Airy nose with an animal touch of fur, then plum, sandalwood, a pungent note of black pepper and a slightly chalky touch. Juicy and pleasant on the palace although the more “rustic” and genuine character.

 

GINEPRAIO – MONTECUCCO SANGIOVESE DOCG 2016, PIERINI AND BRUGI

90% Sangiovese, 10% Syrah. Vinified in stainless steel, aged in 20 Hl Slavonian oak barrels for a year, aged at least 4 months in bottle.

The sour cherry combines with aromas of coffee and chocolate, on a balsamic finish supported by cedar wood and oriental spices. Quite dry and concentrated, rather muscular with a slightly bitter finish.

TRIBULO – MONTECUCCO SANGIOVESE DOCG 2016, POGGIO STENTI

100% Sangiovese. Vinification in stainless steel, maturated in 20Hl French oak barrels for 18 months, at least 8/12 months in the bottle.

Developed nose with mainly tertiary notes of coffee and toffee together with tobacco, a hint of coconut oil and kirsch. Consistent and enveloping on the palate, with an aristocratic tone.

 

POGGIO LOMBRONE – MONTECUCCO SANGIOVESE RISERVA DOCG 2016, COLLEMASSARI

100% Sangiovese. Vinification in conical wooden vats. Matured in 40 hl Slavonian oak barrels for 30 months, refined in the bottle.

Fine and complex nose that offers aromas of red rose and cinnamon, roots and wild berries with a refreshing breath of resin. On the palate it has an almost velvety texture even if defined by a firm tannic structure which together with concentration and acidity let us imagine a good potential for ageing. Structured but “easy-to-be-enjoyed” at the same time.

Among the best samples.

 

SOTTOCASA – MONTECUCCO SANGIOVESE RISERVA DOCG 2015, PODERI FLORENCE

100% Sangiovese. Vinified in concrete, matured for 30 months in large oval Slavonian oak barrels of 40 Hl, refined in bottle.

Welcoming nose with aromas of strawberry jam, blond tobacco and a green note of carnation; balsamic background and hints of dates and vanilla. Consistent and harmonious on the palate, robust with excellent potential but at the same time juicy and almost easy-to-drink. Excellent combination of tannin-acidity-fruit maturity.

Probably my favorite sample of this flight.