The black summer truffle market exhibition in Gubbio (Medieval town in Umbria region, Central Italy), was a great occasion to discover more about the value of such a product. Especially considering the weight it has in terms of identity, if we only think that Italy is perhaps the only country offering the opportunity to consume truffles all year round, except for the period of vegetative rest which tends to fall in spring, climate changes permitting. As well as to remind us that many corners in Italy offer excellent expressions, this is why the work of the “Truffle Cities” becomes crucial along with the recent recognition of the “Truffle Search and Quarrying” as a UNESCO intangible asset.
On the occasion of June Market Exhibition held June in Gubbio, I met the director of the National Association “Città del Tartufo”, mrs. Brancadoro (see cover pic), who enlightened me on the secrets of truffle as well as the satisfaction for such an achievement. She told me that well 70 territories spread around 15 of the 20 Italian regions are part of the association, founded in the 90s with Gubbio as a founding member. This recognition will probably allow us to better understand its charm starting from the fact that only some, a few varieties of black truffle, can be cultivated and, anyway, it remains a very complex operation with uncertain results. The rest is in the hands of a wisdom, often handed down from generation to generation, and which involves the dog, a faithful and central protagonist. It is therefore easy to understand the value on which Alba (in Piemonte, Northern Italy) has established itself as the most important market, given the experience of well 90 years; but it is not the only area to look at for quality also as vehicle of territories: where there is truffle, there is an uncontaminated environment.
The limit is the cultural damage inflicted by the law that allows the use of chemical essences in restaurants and for the production of packaged products such as flavored oils and creams.
The battle is, hence, still open and occasions such as those exhibitions are aimed precisely at getting closer to what, among other things, is often feared as an “unapproachable product” and which certainly appears to be so if prices are communicated per kilo without realizing, first of all of the intrinsic value mentioned above, as well as of the reduced quantity that is really required for each single dish.
michele mosca
Opportunities that allow direct and concrete insights also thanks to the meeting with local operators, their passion, effort and storytelling. Among these I cannot fail to mention Michele Mosca who, not surprisingly, put his own face on the logo.
Michele transmits trust and sympathy from the first handshake, as warm as his approach and love for his land and his work that helped him overcome the many difficulties encountered along the way. Time has proved him right because he has conquered a loyal clientele and a reputation as one of the most trusted operators with quality and savoir-faire.
Michele has his company ‘Delizie Tipiche Umbre’ in Gubbio, also known as the “city of madmen” where “mad” stands for free, dreamer, passionate idealist and Michele fully identifies with this definition. This is where the name “AmaroMatto” comes from, the digestive, the “Amaro” (bitter) of Gubbio; delightful.
Events and producers not to be missed.
