A “minor” grape in Germany, at least for the use made of it, which becomes central in an Italian valley: Müller Thurgau in Val di Cembra, Trentino Alto Adige region, Northern Italy which proves how much the right conditions and dedication can obviously make a difference. It is right here that every year an event only focused on Müller Thurgau is held to also compare samples coming from other countries too (here).
Val di Cembra is the valley that in this region offers steep slopes to guarantee a quality viticulture with great attention to sustainability, also supported by the cooperatives whose role is central also given the high number of varieties in use in the area and so for their capillary study on styles, zonation and potentials. Crucial is also the presence of the Aviso torrent on which the terraces overlook as well as the porphyritic soil, more calcareous towards Giovo town.
Müller Thurgau, now an icon of this land, is a crossing of prof. Müller created in Geisenheim at the end of the 19th century between Riesling and Madeleine Royal to which about 900Ha are dedicated in this region with vineyards at altitudes between 500 and 800 m a.s.l. to guarantee strong diurnal ranges for wines, therefore, with good acidity and aromas. A semi-aromatic productive variety that here, thanks to the volcanic soil (porphyry), the calcareous incursions and the control of the yields is never trivial.
Here are some of the most representative realities.
villa corniole – cantina
VILLA CORNIOLE
Recently established family business with vineyards on Monte Corona with more limestone that supports the structure, they produce about 80,000 bottles of which 13/14,000 of Müller Thurgau and a particularly welcoming cellar because it was dug into the porphyry.
A complete line of wines, undoubtedly among my favorites of the area, which enhances the area without any fear to wait before releasing it onto the market until ready. They range from the very fine Italian sparkling wines belonging to the prestigious appellation ‘Trento Doc’ (named after the initials of the 3 daughters, “Salisa”) to Muller Thurgau, balanced and with good extract or to whites from other international grapes such as Chardonnay and Traminer; finally, to precise and intense reds such as Pinot Noir “Sagum”, the rich Lagrein or an excellent Teroldego Rotaliano, from this local and typical variety, which is easy-drinking although the personality also in the oak aged “7 Pergole” version.
A separate story will be specifically dedicated to rosés, including the Pinot Grigio “ramato”.
villa corniole – degustazione
ZANOTELLI
Another family business, since 1860, in the heart of the town with vineyards reaching 900 m a.s.l. particularly concentrated on the production of whites. They started with 20Ha and 15,000 bottles, today they produce around 100,000 bottles. The 3 brothers and the cousin, current conductors, have equally divided the activities and sublimate their union with an excellent line of Trento Doc “Forneri” because since there are so many Zanotellis in the area (being a local common surname), each one was identified on the basis of the profession. Their great-great-grandfather was a baker and since then the descendants have remained “forneri” (baker according to the local dialect): today “for” recalls the sound of the number 4 in English (“four”) representing the 4 current owners. Their Müller Thurgau Superiore is lively and exhuberant on the nose but I also loved their Pinot Nero Superiore for which the bunch is cut in the vineyard and only the wings remain on the plant.
zanotelli – ingresso
CEMBRA CANTINA DI MONTAGNA
An essential productive reference, the cooperative, for the size that allows researches and experimentations for the benefit of all. Today it is the result of the merge between 2 cooperatives: La-Vis (in Val d’Adige) and Cembra born in 1952, which leads to a precious work of zoning. A painstaking work that has allowed the recent presentation of wines from small batches and not only for Müller Thurgau. Impressive spaces for a complete and perfectly recognizable line thanks to the triangle on the label and on the various pages. From the Trento Doc “Oro Rosso” as the porphyry is called given the pinkish color that gives the soils to the semi-aromatic and international whites, coherent and immediate such as Muller Thurgau, Chardonnay, Riesling but also an excellent Pinot Noir, round and refreshing, ” crunchy” but with a good concentration.
cembra – trento doc
