You cannot say you know a wine without having explored the historical and cultural context from which it emerges; starting from the simplest and most common – certainly “Italian” – example: you cannot fully appreciate a wine until it is paired with local food and recipes.
The Sannio Consortium knows this well and thanks to a President, Libero Rillo, and a director, Nicola Matarazzo with a great team, it stands out on a national scale. And as soon as broader solid communication strategy is structured, there will be a further development of this communication and protection body for the wines of Benevento wine area in Campania region.
san michele hermitage
The press tour I participate in at the beginning of June included different but integrated themes and insights: cellars, vineyards and wines for sure but also the Archaeological Museum, the Telese Spa for the pizza and Falanghina pairing which the Consortium is pushing with targeted tours; and yet, the legendary Strega Alberti (liqueur) factory or the historic center of Benevento along with hospitality agencies and facilities for a complete approach.
On the other hand, if after the yearly technical Assolenologi’s tastings (Italian association of winemakers), the official evaluation of the vintage remained unchanged compared to last year, despite a more difficult vintage, it means that there was growth for sure.
You feel more connected after a tour like this, you better get into the territory and its nuances and you get to know better the actors, all of them, of a proud and rich land and, precisely, not only in wine-growing terms which in any case push Sannio to the peaks of regional data in terms of production numbers.
Let’s start with the fact that the Consortium is absolutely active with researches, a fundamental basis for building new projects and new developments. These, among other things, tell us about the growing popularity of the white Falanghina which has seen a 300% increase in production in 10 years and not only in Campania district. Records that attest to a vocation protected in the past thanks to the crucial work of the cooperatives in the area which allowed small vine growers to survive buying their grapes also in difficult times. Those are today supported by small wine artisans for a complete but delicate picture, to be safeguarded to avoid abandonments and imbalances to the detriment of a prestigious growth path.
old vines
Among these virtuous realities, I recently wrote about the Bue Apis, symbol of a territory: a delightful Aglianico produced by the Cantina del Taburno and of which we visited the centenary vineyards (with plants up to 250 years old) which take you back and to reflections on the charm of this nectar so dense of messages. Together with the aperitif on the Hermitage of San Michele where we tasted wines that demonstrate the versatility of these varieties, above all Falanghina (white) and Aglianico (black), to be worked in the simplest way and inert vessels or with wood, on lees or any other enriching process depending on the preferred style, these were immersive experiences whose effectiveness is maximized compared to the classic technical tasting.
strega alberti – imitations
Territorial wonders such as the impressive Arch of Trajan accessible from center of Benevento. Yet, the archaeological museum and the Egyptian museum (second only to that of Turin) a few steps from each other, convey the grandeur of a territory with a profound history.
Among the territorial excellences, a visit to the Strega Alberti factory is a must. I admit that I have a crush on this reality, whose famous liqueur – a must in Italian homes and recognizable by its bright yellow color thanks to the use of saffron – is copied all over the world, demonstrating its clear success. A complex process which, once again, proves how success is only minimally the result of lucky combinations. The spice room then leaves… with open nose!
caves – mustilli winery
The magic of the village of Sant’Agata de’Goti and the underground cellars of Mustilli are an obligatory stop at least once to delve deeper into the history of a wine (Falanghina) wanted and relaunched, even though it sounds strange today as nowadays so popular across the border as symbol of Campania and beyond. I would say that the photos tell much more than words. Furthermore, it is from here, with Leonardo Mustilli, that the fundamental difference between internal Falanghina and coastal Falanghina begins.
The pizza with dough made with Telese thermal water completes the picture together with the charm of the hospitality of Masseria Roseto Cotroneo, a beautiful structure also for events in my opinion, and coordinated by the support of the agency Rotolando verso Sud, super professional.
agape restaurant
These surrounding elements are too often forgotten although so functional and not always at this level. As long as there are operators like these who work as an excellent team and promote all-round hospitality, there can only be a rosy future. Among others, I also mention the wonderful experience at the Agape restaurant and therefore with the Piscitelli brothers, or the warmth of “Casa”, light-hearted and authentic by Torre a Oriente as already shared on social media.
