Sertura winery, with a vertical tasting of its Greco di Tufo DOCG, has inaugurated Radici del Sud 2018: the festival of the indigenous grapes of southern Italy. So, after the welcome to the international journalists and buyers by Nicola Campanile, organizer of the event, the guests have had the chance to discover the different nuances of this historical and prestigious wine from Campania region.
“We are behind the Vesuvio” as the wine critic Luciano Pignataro, who led the tasting along with the producer Giancarlo Barbieri, points out since the beginning to introduce a territory which can thus be defined as “volcanic”, in line with a trend (that of volcanic wines) much in vogue at international level. And more precisely we are in Irpinia (province of Avellino, inland Campania), the most important wine area in Campania basing on the number of wineries.
The production area of Greco di Tufo (DOCG since 2003) is the smallest of the 3 DOCG of Irpinia area: it includes 8 municipalities including Tufo which gives the name to the appellation. The territory, although quite small, is characterized by a certain diversity as well as the influence of the river Sabato; the soils are mainly chalky-clay with volcanic and sulfur incursions, the altitudes ranges from 300 up to 700 m a.s.l., exposures and microclimates conditions may vary: up north, the area of the municipalities of Santa Paolina and Montefusco (together with Tufo), is the most planted and often gives citrus notes. On the right bank of the river the wines are often characterized by sulphurous scents; while in those produced on the left bank, floral notes are frequent. All flavors that often leave room to kerosene ones with the age.
Even the training system can vary from the more traditional raggiera avellinese to the more modern vertical system. A grape variety that is not easy to grow with a compact bunch and a thin skin and thus exposed to the risk of moulds and burns. The current available styles are very different: vertical and savory or more fruity or even tropical, sulphurous or “fat”. However it presents a more or less complex bouquet but we will not fail in noticing that it is marked by a strong acidity and an important body, elements that make it a wine often defined as “red dressed in white”, allowing the pairing with white meat and relatively elaborate dishes such as pork or even lamb.
Sertura was founded in 2008 and produces 20,000 bottles of Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, Aglianico and Taurasi. The Greco di Tufo vineyards are 2, located in the municipalities of Prata di Principato Ultra and Santa Paolina.
Please find here the impressions of the interpretation of Giancarlo, I would define representative and captivating.
Greco di Tufo 2017 (tank sample)
A particularly difficult vintage marked by a terrible spring frost and a long period of drought, anyway the wine shows its own outlined personality with aromas of broom and candied lemon peel. On the palate is coherent, still a little acidulous, dry.
Greco di Tufo 2016
Due to spring frosts and an irregular trend, an important quantitative loss was recorded. Greco, however, has shown a beautiful tenacity revealing, in the glass, its most typical features: body and tension. The bouquet is made of citrus fruits that precede iodine. On the palate is savoury with a slightly toasted aftertaste. Smoother than the previous one so demonstrating how much important is to wait at least 1 year more before consuming this wine.
Greco di Tufo 2015
This vintage has been rainy and cold at first and then hot in the summer but with great diurnal range that have facilitated a good balance between sugars and acids in the grapes brought to the cellar. On the nose is welcoming with notes of cedar, flint and toasted nuts. Full and consistent on the palate.
Greco di Tufo 2014
An anomalous vintage, rainy in May, cool in summer and with low temperatures in autumn, an element that favors late Campania grape varieties like Greco. Thanks to a wise management, a vertical but welcoming wine has been obtained. On the nose: peach, grapefruit and a touch of smoke. Shorter but quite harmonious. Salty
Greco di Tufo 2013 (the first commercialized vintage)
An abundant vintage even if heterogeneous, cool and late. The wine in the glass is the most complete of the flight. Intense and fruity on the nose with notes of ripe stone fruits, even if pushed more on white pepper and hints of goudron and melted butter. Great balance, it demonstrates the potential for ageing of this special wine of southern Italy.
Greco di Tufo 2009
It is a wine that belongs to what was still the stage of experimentation of Sertura winery produced as a result of a difficult vintage again: irregular and humid. The wine shows a good “shape” since a first visual analysis, the nose is contained and reminds a note of sugared almond. An educational wine thanks to the high level of acidity that it shows after almost 10 years.