“The response to climate change? The altitude”. On the other hand, we are in Alto Adige and, not surprisingly, already from the texts of the 17th century we deduce that such an opportunity was well exploited in this region.
Franz Haas, a scrupulous and highly esteemed producer in Sud Tirolo (the other name of “Alto Adige” area, north-east of Italy), is very worried about the current climate change due to the speed of its development, but rising up to higher altitude is the most concrete and effective solution. And yet, the regulations of some Italian appellations do not always allow it (how weird!).
“The wine must give physical and emotional pleasure” says Franz, “and this depends on the seriousness of the producer whether they are organic or biodynamic or they are not if, however, they work with heart and judgment“. Indeed, judgment, competence, heart and open-mindedness are, in my opinion, the reasons why Franz Haas (with its homonymous winery) is a central reference for the production of Pinot Nero in particular. I spent a morning tasting barrel samples of Pinot Nero, each in a different phase of vinification and, above all, whose grapes came from different altitudes and that, therefore, offered variable traits.
franz haas, the winery
It would be hard to report the sensations and boring to just list the tasting notes. What comes out, once again, are his obsessive and passionate attention, the continuous experimentation and the connection with this and other similar territories that makes Franz’s different expressions of Pinot Nero among the most elegant and representative ones in Italy (and beyond).
Subtle concentration and an always long finish, the maturation in wooden barrels intervenes on the texture (thus made silky) rather than on the aromatic spectrum if not enriched with delicate and extremely pleasant scents (such as sandalwood or variations of light toasting); a frequent refreshing note made by hints of Mediterranean scrub, officinal herbs or eucalyptus. A fruity concentration that supports the body without ever losing its balance with an extraordinary elegance supported by the dynamism of the lively sip thanks to the right acidity level rather than tannins, although always soft and ripe.
