Best Chef of Oil AIRO 2021, a title that perfectly introduces the Italian chef Lorenzo Cantoni’s philosophy and mission. After the meeting with the starred chef Tano Simonato, the idea that cooking “without” (without butter or the sautéed preparations) can, rather, “add essence to the dish” arose. Extra virgin olive oil, therefore, becomes central in the preparation, the concept and the dishes of Lorenzo who has recently embarked on a new adventure at the restaurant Il Frantoio in Assisi, in Umbria region, central Italy.

Il frantoio restaurant

In this reconciled location, perfectly in line with the expectations linked to the image of the rolling Umbrian hills, each dish is designed, prepared and served with a different oil to enhance its most intimate characteristics.

oil and bread

The 100% Moraiolo “L’Affiorante” by Marfuga (local producer), with all its pungent temper, is paired to the the naturally leavened bread while the typical “Panzanella” is served with “Emozione” oil by Decimi, a delicate blend of local varieties (Moraiolo, Frantoio, Leccino and San Felice) to avoid covering up such a simple preparation mainly made of vegetables. But there is not only Umbria among the selected oils: the red shrimp carpet from Mazara del Vallo with puttanesca sauce (tomatoes and black olive-based sauce), ginger and lime sorbet is served with “Delicato”, an oil from Bitonto, Puglia (made from Frantoio and Picholine). A balanced oil that is also served with the Lamb in three textures, spring vegetables and rosemary ice cream where another Lorenzo’s stylistic signature comes up: contrasts and co-presence of flavors, including sweet, in every dish. And so on for the entire menu: from delicious appetizers to the main courses with a strong territorial appeal without neglecting a look beyond the regional borders.

the lamb

Double sensory experience, therefore, to be explored dish after dish even at the end when, as a pre-dessert, a particularly delicious olive oil jelly with licorice sugar is served.

the jelly

But Lorenzo’s most iconic dish and, in my opinion, the most successful one is Spaghetti with yellow tomatoes and basil flour. The scent is unmistakable: that of the tomato sauce that we Italians learn and love since childhood but the presentation is essential and elegant. Perfect cooked spaghetti are immersed in an impalpable sauce of yellow tomatoes with a well-balanced sprinkling of basil in flour: the taste-expectation correspondence is consistent, an equilibrium between refinement and essentiality. To be consumed daily.

spaghetti