Extremely precise wines but, at the same time, without any “artificiality”. This is my impression of a tasting of the Pinot Nero produced by Tenuta Mazzolino winery done with the winemaker Stefano Malchiodi.
A project that started in the 1980s when Enrico Bragiotti was looking for the right place to reunite his wide family and try to maximize the potential of a territory inspired to Burgundy by vocation. We are, in fact, in Oltrepo Pavese (Lombradia region, north-west of Italy) which is characterized by the production of Pinot Noir used both for sparkling rosé and for still red wines. In a historical period in which most wineries aimed at quantity to exploit the market opportunity offered by the close Milano town, Bragiotti embraced the suggestion of the super Italian experts Giacomo Bologna and Veronelli who recommend exploiting the hilly position to produce high quality Pinot Noir and everything starts with a red called “Noir” in 1985. Today the reins are held by Francesca Seralvo who, out of any rhetoric, leads with proud passion a reality that stands out for its seriousness and stylistic definition together with Kyriakos Kynigopoulos, consultant winemaker, beyond the internal staff.
Here are some notes.
Cruasè – Oltrepò Pavese Classic Method Pinot Nero Brut Rosé
Vintage 2013 even if the vintage is not on the label, 60 months on the lees.
Fine and delicate nose with notes of crunchy berries, pastry and saffron with a floral touch. On the palate it is absolutely creamy, elegant and juicy. Perfect balance between the refreshing sip and the overall dynamic structure. Very well defined, extremely clean and satisfying.
Also rewarded by the new guide to best Italian rosè: 50 Top Italy Rosé 2021.
Terrazze – IGT Province of Pavia 2019
Aged in tanks for 12 months.
Subtle and inviting nose with notes of currant and pomegranate, wild violet and roots. On the palate it is lively and fruity but supported by a measured freshness and a savory touch. Elegant, fruity, immediate and versatile for food pairings. A wine with a precise balance between a welcoming character and its depth.
Noir – Pinot Nero dell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2017
In “pièce” of Burgundy for 12 months.
Intense nose with red cherry, sandalwood, sweet spiciness and toasted paprika, with puffs of black pepper and camphor. It is not fully developed and needs time also to get woody notes more integrated. Bodied with denser tannins and a slightly more pungent acidity. Still early to draw conclusions. Not by chance, the winery has well 28 vintages, also available for purchase.
