Verdicchio has a long history that passes through the difference between the two appellations of Marche region (Central Italy): Castelli di Jesi and Matelica. Here is why there are 2 separate appellations for the same white variety (Verdicchio) in the same region. The first is larger and has varied expressions, the second is decidedly smaller and inland with, generally, higher altitudes, for fine refreshing wines with potential for potential that is finally appreciated also for Italian whites.

The 8th edition of the festival dedicated to this excellence has highlighted its nuances but above all the passion of the producers of the relative association with a sale and tasting spot with over 80 labels in the foyer of the theater which I find an extremely engaging environment.

In line with our times, the focus is on the territory, therefore the inclusion on the label of only the name of the location “Matelica” (rather than the current one which also include the name of the variety: Verdicchio) makes the production area a priority with respect to the grape variety together with cooperation, hence to push the wine of the Marche in general even more, as demonstrated by the importance of this event open to wine experts and the public.

Let’s start with the variety: green and tight so better in shaded and/or ventilated ones where Guyot is preferred due to infertility of the basal buds; it is also sensitive to esca disease. It develops along the Vallesina valley with a rare North-South orientation with a chain that shields from the thermal influence of the sea favoring cool conditions with strong diurnal range despite the fact that the climate at this parallel is Mediterranean. This leads the plant to produce less to ensure ripeness but the mild climate of the summer period allows for perfect ripening.

The visit to different realities such as Tenute Colpaola and the young Cime Basse together with an enlightened cooperative such as Belisario (the members sell them the vines, not the grapes for maximum control) completed the picture begun with a mixed tasting.

Here are my best tastings:

BELISARIO – “MERIDIA” VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA DOC 2021

Developed nose of honey, kerosene along with exotic fruits and an enveloping taste with a bitter finish

 

CASA LUCCIOLA – VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA RISERVA DOCG 2020

Inspired to biodynamics, the wine has a developed bouquet of honey and candy then barley and candied citrus peel; lively on the palate with a dry finish

CAVALIERI – “DIREZIONE PAPAINA” (60% 2022, 30% 2021, 10% 2023)

The label recalls the face of the father to underline the historicity of an open wine with delicate floral notes along with stone fruit and a medicinal touch for a savory taste, the bitter finish will be a rather typical constant

 

GAGLIARDI – “MACAGNANO” VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA RISERVA DOCG 2018

From his fundamentalist approach that pushes him to prefer concrete vessels to avoid the electrostatic charges of steel, the wine that comes out has a composite nose with notes of dried fruit that suggest its age while remaining young with puffs of pepper, preserved peach and jasmine for a lively and structured sip

 

COLPAOLA – VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA DOC 2016

Clear ideas since 2013 with a beautiful estate at above 600m a.s.l. Developed nose of kerosene and forest floor for an austere and, once again, medicinal palate but undoubtedly coherent and composed

 

LAMELIA – VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA DOC “SELEZIONE SAN VITO” 2022

The branch of PROVIMA with vineyards in San Vito. The nose is young and welcoming with aromas of fleshy flowers, fennel and white peach. Balanced and refreshing palate

 

PROVIMA – “EGOS” VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA DOC 2022

From the only certified organic line a wine with green notes and puffs of face powder for a lean tasting with an austere finish

 

LE CIME BASSE – “BALZANI” VERDICCIO DI MATELICA DOC 2022

This is the first vintage of the young company that skipped 2023 due to downy mildew. Concrete and fine lees ageing make the wine rich and elegant, round although the long and savory finish.

 

MARAVIGLIA – “GRAPPOLI D’ORO” VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA RISERVA DOCG 2021

The over-ripe grapes offer a complex nose outlined by floral and rocky notes with hints of medicinal herbs; on the palate it is dry and savory with a long finish

 

TENUTA GRIMALDI – VERDICCIO DI MATELICA DOC 2021

A young company with different plots whose grapes contribute to the final result representing the company for a sophisticated wine with a complex nose of peach, lemon leaf, fennel and a coherent sip, with an excellent silky texture although the refreshing soul. Among my favorite tastings

 

TENUTA PIANO DI RUSTANO – “BRONDOLETO” VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA RISERVA DOCG 2021

From a windy sub-zone comes out a complex and charming reserve with aromas of ripe citrus, vegetal notes then butter and anise; decidedly fresh with a long savory finish and the typical bitter aftertaste. Very good

VILLA COLLEPERE – VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA DOC “GRILLI” 2019

A former hunting estate that today offers splendid hospitality. The wine is intriguing with strong notes of peach, oregano and wildflower for an austere but harmonious and vertical sip. Better than the 2022 which still has unexpressed potential. Congratulations for the project as a whole

 

VIGNE FERNANDO ALBERTO – “GAUDIO” VERIDICCHIO DI MATELCA RISERVA DOCG 2021

Sweet nose of ripe tropical fruit, herbs and cotton candy. Enveloping and full on the palate despite the austere and savory finish